New Zealand Vacation

August 15th - August 19th, 2005

Monday, August 15th

Bay of Islands

Today we decided to drive north along the coast to the Bay of Islands, known for its stunning coastal scenery. It is about a 3 hour drive, but took us 6 hours because we kept taking side trips when something looked interesting or to stop for something to eat.

This beached sailboat caught our eye.

Our first big detour was the Moirs Hill Walkway where, the sign said, the Pohuehue Waterfall was only a 15 minute walk. Actually, the walk was delightful, along a narrow path through a rainforest. The trail was well-kept, with steps cut into the hill at the steepest places and bridges over the deepest ravines.

After about 20 minutes of climbing up and down steep hills, this tiny waterfall was all we found. Even though we had been following a river and at one point actually heard a waterfall....when the path continued up yet another steep hill moving even further from the sound of the water, we gave it up. Just the same, it was a delightful trek through the rainforest!

Cresting a mountain, we could see the Pacific Ocean and Marsden Point in the distance. The landscape was generally mountainous with endless hillsides dotted with sheep and cattle and very few towns, houses or farms.

Finally we reached the Bay of Islands. Around every curve was yet another glorious vista. The bay is punctuated by dozens of coves and over 150 islands. This is Opua.

The clear waters range in hue from turquoise to deep blue. This is Paihia. Paihia was first settled by Europeans as a mission station in 1823 with the arrival of Reverend Henry Williams.

It was a lovely day, full of beautiful sights, charmingly quaint little towns and a gorgeous sunset to send us on our way home.

Tuesday, August 16th - Devonport

Today we spend the day in Devonport, a quaint suburb on the tip of Auckland's North Shore peninsula...about 10 minutes from our hotel. One of the earliest areas of European settlement, it has retained a 19th century atmosphere with many well-preserved Victorian and Edwardian buildings.

We started our day by visiting Mt. Victoria. In this relief map, Mt. Victoria is the cone closer to the middle of the photo. It is one of two extinct volcanic cones in Devonport. To orient you, the wharf is the projection at 3 o'clock and our hotel is out of the picture to the left.

Mt. Victoria was fortified by the Maori long before the arrival of Europeans. In 1899, the threat of Russian expansion into the Pacific stimulated the construction of Auckland's coastal defenses. Mt. Victoria, the highest of Devonport's volcanic cones, at 283 feet, was chosen as the Observation and Control Post and was linked by telephone to other coastal fortifications. The great disappearing gun, above, was mounted here.

The gun remained hidden in its pit for reloading between firing. It was then pumped upwards by compressed air and water to the firing position. After firing, the recoil compressed the air and water in the cylinders again ready for lifting for the next shot.

It was fired only once. The vibration cracked the glass in many nearby windows and residents complained.

Mt. Victoria has a great 360-degree
views of the harbor and Auckland.

We then went down to the promenade along the waterfront in Devonport. Here we found another amazing tree! Notice this one has aerial roots. The pipes you see contain more aerial roots the city is protecting.

Notice this one has aerial roots. The pipes you see contain more aerial roots the city is protecting.

After exploring the quaint shops and the lovely promenade, we boarded a ferry to ride to the wharf at Auckland. Here our ferry is arriving at the wharf.

And this is looking back at Devonport from the back of our ferry.

Approaching the wharf on the Auckland side.

The red building is the terminal building where the ferry docks.

Fred posed for me by these great lightposts.

Wednesday, August 17th

Auckland Harbor

Today was a gorgeous day! Warm and sunny with widely scattered clouds. We decided to take the Auckland Harbour Luncheon Cruise.

We rode the ferry from Devonport to Auckland where we boarded the Kawau Kat at the Quay Street Wharf.

As we motored away from the dock, the Auckland wharf shone in the sunlight! Our skipper gave us a continuous description of what we saw on coasts of the harbor.

We passed Bastion point and circled this lighthouse, Bean Rock Lighthouse, which marks the reefs that endanger sailors through the harbor.

As we circled around past the rugged splendor of Rangitoto Volcanic Island, the sailing ship on the right, The Spirit of New Zealand, glided by us. What a beautiful ship she is! Meanwhile, our luncheon, steak and seafood, was being barbequed on the grill! It was fabulous!

We then cruised past North Head, Devonport and the Bayswater Marina as we headed toward the beautiful Auckland Harbour Bridge. The sailboats filled the landscape as we cruised through the bridge, circled and came back through the bridge again.

As we passed the Auckland Marina, we were told this was the second largest marina in the world!

North Head

After riding the ferry back to Devonport, it was such a glorious day we decided to drive up to North Head, the volcanic cone on the far tip of the peninsula. Maori named North Head Maungauika - Mountain of Uika, after Uika, an ancestor who lived here c. 800 years ago. Maori recognized its strategic importance, building a lightly fortified pa, known as Takapuna. Its commanding outlook was important for watching for waka returning from fishing expeditions, or trading trips, as well as war parties.

From North Head overlooking the town of Devonport.

From North Head looking out to sea.

This battery observation post was built in 1913. Half buried and hidden from enemy view this observation post provided protection. After World War II, this building was used as a Navy communications center.

Today the buildings are maintained
by the New Zealand Department of Conservation.